🔗 Share this article Edward Enninful reflects on Today's Society: 'Britain Feels Less Tolerant Now' Than in the 90s. A serendipitous meeting on the London Underground in 1988 changed forever the path of a young Ghanaian immigrant to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the city's electric 1990s artistic milieu, evolving from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine. "That time was the height of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be kindred spirits. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday bled into Saturday into Sunday. I long for that energy." Although Enninful appears sentimental, he is far from alone. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. However over the last thirty years, Enninful feels a significant change. "I believe, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s worldwide." Shifting Attitudes This shift is hard to ignore: the resurgence of populist movements, the reaction against social awareness, and the reassertion of Eurocentric beauty standards. In place of the hope of the previous decade, today a different political personality appears as a possible leader. Even, the Union Jack, once an emblem of Cool Britannia, has sparked debate once more. According to Enninful, the solution has always been to champion culture in all its variety. This was the driving force behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, including a wide range of cultural icons from politics. "Those in a position of influence should wield it," he comments, discussing those editorial decisions. "Everyone talks about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain hadn't been a open country, if it did not offer my family a refuge and an education. That’s the Britain I always loved. I trust this moment will fade." The Younger Generation's Awareness He draws solace in the next generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They discuss unconscious bias – I had no concept what that was." Those early experiences would shape a pioneering career built on fearlessness and diversity. Enninful set a precedent as the first male, first black man, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured historic front pages showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, older individuals, and individuals from varied communities. Significantly, sales grew. "To overlook vast segments of the population, it’s more than that you’re not being inclusive – it’s bad for business," he states. Launching a Creative Venture He has established his new venture EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his first major project since moving on from his previous role. He states his aim to continue being a "innovator". "I constantly interrogate the conventional wisdom. I was brought up in a place where everybody was black – the physicians, the attorneys, the president. Then we came to England, penniless, and I became the 'other'. I was very shy. My teachers declared I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the suspicion laws … those experiences gave me a sense of being on the inside and the outside." Defying the popular image of industry figures as brash and highly strung, Enninful is measured in tone and exudes calm. His path has included its share of hardship, including openly discussed struggles with mental health and addiction. He has also faced significant health challenges, having had multiple operations on his eyes, resulting in limited vision. "I endured such a time of fear for two years, away from work, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I thought, if this ever is over, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a fashion person." The Tate Britain Exhibition This determination to fit into a box has propelled him away from the realm that built his career. He is now curating a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a roster of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to evoke the decade's creative cross-pollination – and highlight those who lacked due recognition at the time. "Galleries often failed to celebrate the most relevant talents because they lacked the right pedigree," he states. This project itself operates on a different strategy, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "Our approach is, what can we do together? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is part of a larger creative platform." An Unstoppable Drive Now, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most respected industry leaders. His journey, he states, is a demonstration to the power of pursuing your passions. What would the younger Edward think of the Edward of today? He chuckles. "It would be a surprise, but he’d be proud. In those days I was anti-establishment. I never imagined institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me." He pauses. "Nothing is assumed. We fled, we left our homeland. I nearly lost my vision. So fear is not a factor. People have counted me out my entire life. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve decided to do something."
A serendipitous meeting on the London Underground in 1988 changed forever the path of a young Ghanaian immigrant to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was swiftly pulled into the city's electric 1990s artistic milieu, evolving from model to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine. "That time was the height of the YBA movement – Jay Jopling, Tracey Emin. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he recalls. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I felt we’d be kindred spirits. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday bled into Saturday into Sunday. I long for that energy." Although Enninful appears sentimental, he is far from alone. Recently, a longing look back of the 1990s has reached fever pitch. However over the last thirty years, Enninful feels a significant change. "I believe, we’re more divided now than we were in the 90s," he remarks. "The issue extends beyond this country – it’s worldwide." Shifting Attitudes This shift is hard to ignore: the resurgence of populist movements, the reaction against social awareness, and the reassertion of Eurocentric beauty standards. In place of the hope of the previous decade, today a different political personality appears as a possible leader. Even, the Union Jack, once an emblem of Cool Britannia, has sparked debate once more. According to Enninful, the solution has always been to champion culture in all its variety. This was the driving force behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, including a wide range of cultural icons from politics. "Those in a position of influence should wield it," he comments, discussing those editorial decisions. "Everyone talks about immigration; I would not be in this position if Britain hadn't been a open country, if it did not offer my family a refuge and an education. That’s the Britain I always loved. I trust this moment will fade." The Younger Generation's Awareness He draws solace in the next generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They discuss unconscious bias – I had no concept what that was." Those early experiences would shape a pioneering career built on fearlessness and diversity. Enninful set a precedent as the first male, first black man, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to lead at British Vogue. His leadership featured historic front pages showcasing models of colour, plus-sized women, older individuals, and individuals from varied communities. Significantly, sales grew. "To overlook vast segments of the population, it’s more than that you’re not being inclusive – it’s bad for business," he states. Launching a Creative Venture He has established his new venture EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his first major project since moving on from his previous role. He states his aim to continue being a "innovator". "I constantly interrogate the conventional wisdom. I was brought up in a place where everybody was black – the physicians, the attorneys, the president. Then we came to England, penniless, and I became the 'other'. I was very shy. My teachers declared I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the suspicion laws … those experiences gave me a sense of being on the inside and the outside." Defying the popular image of industry figures as brash and highly strung, Enninful is measured in tone and exudes calm. His path has included its share of hardship, including openly discussed struggles with mental health and addiction. He has also faced significant health challenges, having had multiple operations on his eyes, resulting in limited vision. "I endured such a time of fear for two years, away from work, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just exist in a state of dread 24/7. I thought, if this ever is over, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to confine myself to just being an editor or a fashion person." The Tate Britain Exhibition This determination to fit into a box has propelled him away from the realm that built his career. He is now curating a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a roster of defining artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to evoke the decade's creative cross-pollination – and highlight those who lacked due recognition at the time. "Galleries often failed to celebrate the most relevant talents because they lacked the right pedigree," he states. This project itself operates on a different strategy, rejecting traditional advertising in favour of partnership-based projects. "Our approach is, what can we do together? Is it an event, a podcast? The magazine is part of a larger creative platform." An Unstoppable Drive Now, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most respected industry leaders. His journey, he states, is a demonstration to the power of pursuing your passions. What would the younger Edward think of the Edward of today? He chuckles. "It would be a surprise, but he’d be proud. In those days I was anti-establishment. I never imagined institutions like Tate were a place for someone like me." He pauses. "Nothing is assumed. We fled, we left our homeland. I nearly lost my vision. So fear is not a factor. People have counted me out my entire life. But no obstacle is too great once I’ve decided to do something."